Twitchers

I was never a bird watcher. I have friends who watch birds and I have even accompanied them on outings. They seem like nice people with a strange hobby. They keep lists and trade numbers reflecting their accomplishments. I wonder if they cheat like golfers. I take pictures. You know I saw something if I can show you the pictures. I saw this elephant. I saw this leopard. I tried this with birds, but that little smudge in that bush could be about anything. You can’t see that it has three red spots on the crest of its head and a downward curving bill. 

The representative from Smithsonian who travels with us called the birders "twitchers". I suppose this in reference to the way they look this way and that as they move about and communicate which each other. I trust these birders on their bird IDs. When they call out a sighting and they apply the same name, I think they must be right. They also must have better eyes and memories than me. Even with binoculars, I don’t see the details they see and then they remember the names - common and scientific. I can’t remember the names of some of the people I worked with a few years ago. Maybe I don’t practice enough.

I do try to weave in some tech content with my travels stories. In this case, the title of this content might be described as "there is an app for that". There are plenty of great apps for bird identification and related activities. As I have questioned my fellow travelers regarding their bird watching activities, they often are using an app on their phones not only to identify the birds, but also to keep a running list of their finds. The app makes these tasks fairly easy. See something, match what you see with a bird pic within the app, and click on the appropriate button to date, locate, and store the find to your list. I found what they were using and it cost $33. This would have probably been the most expensive app I had purchased had I made the purchase. I do sometimes spend more when one considers the cost of a subscription fee, but this was the cost for the African edition of the birding app.

My alternative was to take advantage of the "lens" feature of Google photos. Google will take a stab at identifying any bird I photograph. Actually, it will take a stab at attempting to identify anything. Google will offer me alternatives which is a great opportunity for me to consider whether I agree with the suggestion Google makes and it will find online content related to what it thinks the photo is. Often the suggestion is to a Wikipedia entry. I tried this with several birds and Google seems to have been accurate in all cases. At least what Google suggested was something I knew we had seen and was appropriate to the area in which I had been when photographing the bird.

Here are some examples using screen captures to show my photo (at the top) and the Google suggestion below.

Climate change

Getting close to nature can offer some insights into the changing climate. Aside from some very interesting discussions with Don Wilson a retired Smithsonian scientist regarding the Smithsonian’s efforts to combat the science deniers, two observations made an impression on me from our time in Zambia. Both involved first-time actions humans have taken to offset present challenges. In both cases, these were the first time such actions have been taken. 

This is the view of the river from the lodge. The original channel for launching the boats is the near channel. A new system had to be constructed when things became very dry and the boats could no longer navigate this channel. 

For the first time. the lodge is supporting feeding the animals. This cannot be done in the actual national park, but in the surrounding game preserve. Hay and salt blocks have been put out to support the animals until the rainy season.

Tiger Fish from the Zambezi

As would be appropriate for all good citizens of Minnesota (and Wisconsin and North Dakota) we had to participate in one of the fishing events offered by the lodge. We were after the Tiger Fish. I assume the name has something to do with its large teeth and aggressive nature. The fish is a great fighter including jumps in an effort to throw the hook and desperate dives when nearing the boat. Our boat did quite well with Evondra landing a 10 and 11 pounder. Mark caught a small one. Cindy helped in the collection of baitfish.

So, this is a two-step process. First, catch smaller fish that can be used for bait. Cut up the smaller  fish and drift waiting for a Tiger will strike. Wait for line to be taken, close the bail, and then set the hook.  Hold on

Bait Fish

Rig for Tiger Fish - wire leader, note strangely shaped hook

Mark's fish

One of Evondra's boat winners

The larger fish caught in the boats that went out seemed to be 9-11 pounds. Watching someone try to land a 10 pounder was impressive as it took some time to get the fish into the boat. These fish can be much larger. Our guide said he used heavier tackle to catch a 25 pounder and even this fish would be small in comparison to some that have been landed.

Bugs

The preparation for a trip to Africa requires that you visit a travel clinic, read some warnings from the CDC, and get some shots and medications. The information is enough to scare you. Don't drink the water and remember to use bottled water when brushing your teeth. Wear the highest concentration DEET you can find, long sleeve shirts, and don't venture out in the still of the morning or evening. Don't wear black or bright colors. I am guessing it is enough to scare some off and I admit I was a bit concerned, but had some comments to ease my fears from friend Stan.

So, here is the word on the bugs. If you are concerned about the number of bugs and say have experienced Alaska or northern Minnesota or Wisconsin, there is no comparison. It is torture in the evening to walk from the dock to our northern Wisconsin cabin in the summer because of the mosquitos. The ticks are also gross and have sent us to the clinic for shots a couple of times [I had one attach between my toes once when I was wearing sandals. Thinking I must have athletes foot because I am such an athlete, I did not seek medical attention until I started to notice red streaks up my ankle and calf. Not even a test for Lyme disease - immediate antibiotics.]

However, the consequences of exposure to mosquitos and tsetse flies in Africa can be damaging. The mosquitos are mainly known for malaria and the tsetse flies for sleeping sickness. We are taking medication for malaria. We did mostly invest in khaki-colored clothing to avoid tsetse flies.

In summary, the insect density at this time has been low. It still pays to take precautions.

This is a tsetse fly trap you see along the roads in Zambia. I think it works in a somewhat similar manner to the devices some are using to limit the damage to their gardens from Japanese beetles. The flies are attracted to the black and blue colors and then there is a vial of liquid (you can see the pocket) the lures the insect in to kill them.

In addition to the high concentrate DEET we brought along, we found two forms on bug repellant in our room. Imagine the line-up of complementary products, shampoo, conditioner, hand lotion, insecticides, and you kind of get the picture. There was a lotion infused with DEET that was supposed to smell pretty good. I am guessing this second can was provided to assure reluctant tourists. It implies that what is contained within would kill pretty much anything. 

Royal Zambezi Lodge

We are now staying in the Royal Zambezi Lodge in Zambia. This is a fly-in only resort owned by a copper mining billionaire who now lives in Australia. The resort has its own airport and planes. The resort holds about 40 guests in individual "tents" (see below).

Riding back up the runway in a jeep after landing in the company plane.

The camp as viewed from the river.

Cindy entering the tent after removing the baboon lock from the door.

The main room is basically a giant bed with mosquito netting and spectacular views all around.

Sunrise this morning. We get up early (5:30) to take advantage of the cooler temps in the morning.

Photos of Big Five

I have been successful in taking a photo (or hundreds) of the animals designated as the African Big Five. As I described in an earlier post, these were the five most difficult animals to hunt on foot, but the selection has become a goal for photographers visiting the area.

Black Rhino

Cape Buffalo

Elephant

Leopard

Lion

Chobe River Elephants

We leave our Chobe River headquarters in the morning. We were told the Internet connectivity where we are going next is not very good so I thought I better get this post completed because I may be offline for several days.

We have had the opportunity to see hundreds of elephants in Chobe National Park from the very young to an old elephant splayed out on the road unable to get up dying. There is the majesty of these very large animals which from a jeep you may find yourself 1o yards away, but watching them en masse as they paraded down to the river for water was even more amazing. I have some video of this procession and I will try to add once I get home.

We have viewed these animals in two ways - from our safari jeeps and from a riverboat. After some long outings in a jeep, the river approach was interesting. The river is not that deep this time of year so these are not that large. They are similar to what I would call a pontoon with a roof - narrower with two rows of seats. You do see some different animals this way - hippos and crocodiles - and you are sometimes closer because the jeep drivers are required to stick to the established trails and cannot always approach the animals that are spotted.

Big Five

The Big Five refers to five African animals that guides used to rate as the most difficult for hunters to bag while hunting on foot. The tourism companies have adapted the phrase to suggest that tourists could see and photograph these animals. The list consists of the elephant. rhino, cape buffalo, leopard, and lion. So far I have photos of all but a lion. The leopard and black rhino are more difficult to see, but we have been lucky.

This is one image I took of a leopard we located eating a Cape Buffalo. It did not bring this animal down itself, but found it dead and it is now consuming and guarding its prize until the lions show up to eat. If it was a smaller animal, the leopard would drag it up a tree and leave it in a crook to consume at will. 

The buffalo probably died of natural causes - old age, disease, poor nutrition, or some combination of the above. The animal is simply too large and agressive for a leopard to kill.

If you had the time, a blind, and a nice telephoto lens, you could stake out this site and wait for the lions to show.

As explained in my last post, I am not out and about today. I intended to visit a village rather than participate in another jeep outing, but there is always that FOMO (fear of missing out) concern. Our next location is supposed to be a primo lion opportunity so I am still optimistic. Things should not be too easy or it would be like visiting a zoo.

Mark and his buff

I will try to generate a couple of posts this morning. I skipped the morning outing to deal with a digestive track issue. A little Imodium should fix it. No, I did not use tap water when I brushed my teeth. Part of the morning outing involved a hike into the bush to visit a village so this seemed a little risky for my condition.

One of the items you need when riding a Jeep through the parks is called a buff. It is a versatile item of clothing men use pulled up over your mouth and nose as shown in the picture below. Some women wear it a little differently to cover their hair. It resembles the bandanas I see the ATVers wearing on the trails near our Wisconsin cabin. Same principle - don’t breath the dirt.

I became a believer after our first outing. It did not seem dusty, but I later developed a nasty burning sensation in my sinuses and ended expelling this bloody stuff from my nose. Since that excursion, I have buffed up.

I apologize for my capacity to describe events in graphic detail.

I may appear to you as very tired in this photo. I did take it at 4:00 in the morning, but my body no longer has any idea what time it is so early morning hours don't really mean anything. It is also possible that I always look like this and others have grown accustomed to my look. When I see myself, I am always a little disappointed.

Chobe Camera Boat

We are now exploring the Chobe National Park in Botswana. The is a great park for lions, elephants, and leopards. We have taken a boat down the Chobe river to take photos from the water and ridden through the park in safari jeeps. No lions yet, but we did see and photograph a leopard eating a Cape Buffalo which is a more unlikely sighting. I have many photos to offer, but again the bandwidth is an issue and I will save a post on elephants, giraffe, or the leopard pictures for later.

Botswana does not have the problems of Zimbabwe mostly due to the differences in the stability and focus of the two governments. The opportunities in the two areas are similar.

I wanted to offer this example of entrepreneurialism because I thought it was so unique. Some outfitter leads tours for photographers. What you get is the setup you can see in the image that follows. You sit in a boat with swivel chairs equipped with a monopod fitted with some type of gimbal. You are provided with a high end lens and a camera body if you would rather use their cameras than your own. We did not bring my Canon 7D and prime telephoto lens because of the weight requirement for baggage on some of the smaller planes we are to use. A long lens with a large aperture for more light would certainly be an advantage, but this type of thing probably only matters to the pros or those folks who are willing to pay to photograph birds.

I have several better pictures of this camera boat that make it easier to see the equipment, but I like this silhouetted view. What I thought was amusing in watching this group operate was the choreographed way the entire group would swivel and aim their cameras at an object as their guide would point out something to photograph.

School visit

We had an opportunity to visit the Chinotimba Primary School for an hour or so. This is the web site for the school but I found this link associated with a local tour company. These K-7 students go year round with periodic brakes between sessions. We heard from a teacher describing the mission of the school and we observed the school dance troupe which took time out of their vacation to entertain us.

Like so many things in Zimbabwe, the school operates on a budget. The teachers are compensated with a meager salary by the parents who are able. No student is turned away. When asked about her salary, the teacher doing the presentation said she received enough to get by, but if her car needed a new tire should would have to save up for several months.

The budget mostly goes for salaries and visitors with means are asked to contribute school supplies - pencils, colors, paper, small books. Someone had contributed a computer lab which we did not have the time to inspect, but Cindy then discussed how the students were using technology (one hour per week if I heard right). Cindy asked for teachers email and now is working on a developing an epals project with the teachers in her network.

Africa is such a beautiful place and I have lots of great pictures. However, the images I uploaded yesterday took 45 minutes and I probably used most of the bandwidth for the lodge. Perhaps I will be able to add some photos at a later time when the bandwidth is better.

Elegance and subsistence

This is kind of a continuation of yesterday's post. Allow one observation to set the context. When we left the hotel this morning, we noticed a long line of cars lined up at a gas station. These folks had heard that a truck bringing gas was on its way and there would be some petrol available for purchase. Other nearby gas stations were roped off and closed because they have nothing to sell. Our driver told us some workers with paid with petrol vouchers and would barter them with other folks for things that they needed. However, if there was no gas to purchase this bartering option would not work.

Services close when there is no way to meet a need. The toilets at one border crossing were not available because they were modern toilets and there was no water for them to function.

This is what I would describe as a subsistence existence. No money in the banks. No gas at the gas stations. No job for 80% of the population. Life is a daily struggle. Try to find some U.S. currency or some South African rand so you can meet basic needs. Barter using what you can make or scrounge to get by.

This situation can be contrasted with high-end hotels serving the tourists coming from elsewhere in the world. The tourist industry is nearly the only thing that generates revenue in an area with natural mining resources and agricultural. Land taken from whites, but held by government officials without being given out to be cultivated. Local money has no actual value so the dollars and RANd from tourists are needed so a kind of monetary system is available at all.

Images from hotel

I'll trade you something for your shoes

Zimbabwe is in a terrible economic situation. We were told the unemployment rate is near 80% and this extreme level reflects a slight improvement. Our bus driver who was once a coal miner told Cindy and I of a mining operation that had not paid the worker for 6th months and still demanded the workers continue to work or lose their jobs. Cindy asked about his job in the tourism industry and how those who knew him reacted to his income. He said that it was difficult because others were constantly asking for money and he would call relatives before returning so he could bring some goods such as potatoes and cooking oil to meet the needs of his immediate family. We had just returned from a craft market and he explained how helpful the small purchases made are. Whatever the craftspeople take in for the day may be what is available for their families to eat and meet basic needs.

Before we headed to the craft area our South African leader explained about bargaining and even made a few small purchases to show the group how it was done. You will be quoted an extremely exorbitant price. Respond, more or less, by suggesting that this price was ridiculous and then respond with a very low price. He suggested that the goods were made from inexpensive raw materials and you were pretty much paying for the labor that was involved. He argued that whatever is given is helpful to the craftspeople and their families.

Cindy did the haggling. She has experience in such things and also knew the kinds of items she wanted. The following are some pictures from the craft market and the items Cindy purchased in the first phase of her shopping. She went back this afternoon because she promised some craftsperson that she would and to continue her practice of supporting the shopping economy of wherever she happens to be.

While I was standing around watching I was continually approached by vendors. I told them that I was waiting for my wife while she was shopping and she had all of the money. For some reason, this explanation of why I would not look at their work was hilarious to them and then laughed among themselves I suppose at my expense. A couple of times and this happened more than once so I am sure I heard them right I was asked if I wanted to exchange particular articles of clothing for goods from their shops. I can understand it possibly made sense when someone wanted my vest, but one vendor wanted to swap for my shoes. I told him that this would not be possible because I needed to walk back to the bus that brought me to the market. "Maybe you will come back," he said.

 

Zambezi Dinner Cruise

We attended a Zambezi Dinner Cruise for Smithsonian Safari participants. This was intended mainly as a social hour and whatever wildlife we encountered was intended to be a bonus - drink a little, have some good food, and socialize. We did see wildlife so the day ended up to be quite spectacular. We were able to see 3 of the big five in a single day.

First, there were the elephants. The second image shows an elephant having a dirt bath.

There were hippos in the river. The experience was something like viewing whales. The animals would surface sometimes making noises and then disappear. We saw several individuals and a couple of large groups.

Our kids, snobbish beer drinkers that they are, worry about mom and dad's beer options. I typically report on whether I can find any Bud Light. No, Zimbabwe was all out, but we did find a great local beer.

One of the goals of the cruise was to watch the sun go down. I should start a separate sunset collection from the places we have visited. I would rate this one as a little above average. No, I did not see a green flash.

Black Rhinos

We got up at 5 this morning to reach the Stanley Livingston Game Preserve as the sun came up. The time you get up when you are several time zones out of your natural element makes no difference. Your body has no idea what time it is anyway. The goal of this day's outing was to find the black rhino. This is a rare sighting, but we were lucky and saw what seemed to be 6 of the 9 animals in the park. Today was a spectacular outing according to the guide and the trackers as we saw a great number of animals of all types, but I will save some of the other photos for another time.